Place the male and female in the box and watch the postures of both. If it is the wrong night then the female may be seen to be squatting or trying to turn the male onto his back by putting her nose under his belly. If this is the case the female should be removed and the mating tried again the next night.
This means that she will be standing quite still with her hind legs braced and her tail and ears erect, once seen it is always recognisable. Leave them together for between 20 and 30 minutes after the male is seen to penetrate and then replace in their own cages. Just touching the male can stop both of these instances. The Gestation period is only sixteen days one of the shortest period known in mammals and so care should be taken with handling and feeding after the first seven days.
It may be advisable to give the female some milk each day, either in the form of runny porridge or with bread soaked in it. A few extra sunflower seeds given from the twelfth day onwards should help with lactation making milk.
He's social, loves to play, he is healthy, and he loves him some carrots! He runs on his wheel more than I would have ever thought.
He has just all around made me so happy. I've had rodents before. All of them have been terribly antisocial.
I honestly feel like I lucked out with my Sammy man. This is my reason for wanting to breed him. He has an amazing disposition and I would love to have one of his offspring to carry on his genes. The thought of not having him in my life already hurts me to think about. It saddens me that their lifespan is so short. I would, of course, before breeding find potential homes for all but one of his babies.
I would want one of course I want to do home checks and ask a small rehoming fee to ensure a good environment. I would be willing to waive my rehoming fee for proof of suitable living proper size and setup of cage, food, toys, ect I have done my research on pairing and what pairing to avoid when breeding.
Long story short.. I want what is best for my Sammy and the syrian breed as a whole. I want you guy's opinion on whether you believe me bringing another litter of syrian pups into the world is a responsible and ethical decision. Please do not breed your hamster under any circumstance. Sammy will be just fine without passing on his genes. I honestly think that pet shop hamsters should not be breed. You have totally NO idea of their genetics, where they have any past diseases, any white bellied genes.
What if the pups ended up having a white belly? Would you be able to find someone to adopt it? Will you be able to pay all the medical fees? I had thought of this recently while reading up on genetic defects that hamsters can pass on and I see your point. My problem of just adopting another hamster once he passes is that I highly doubt I will find one as sociable as he is.
Anyhow I see this post is out of regulations now, being on the desktop version is so different, on my mobile I could not see the red warning at the top and when I read the ethical code of breeders I assumed it was allowed here. My apologies everyone. Anyway in regards to the original question, No I don't think you should breed your hammy as there is no need to when you could adopt or buy another hamster. Also if anything went wrong you would be so disappointed in yourself.
How do people become professional, experienced breeders? Surely they have to start somewhere. I think one of the best ways is to study study study genetics, husbandry, etc and then find a good, ethical breeder to mentor you.
Sounds about right. I won't repeat the points that have already been made by others but breeding is not without it's stresses and when you are undertaking a pairing you're basically playing with the lives of not only the mother and pups but the father too.
Do you have time to supervise the pairing and know when the best times to undertake this is? Could you cope if things turned aggressive and one or both parties became injured? Do you have the means to get them to a vet quickly if problems arise? Once the pups are born you will need to be disciplined about contact and when the appropriate time for this might be.
Can you afford the volumes of food that a hungry litter will get through to grow into healthy adults? Do you have cages and the space available ready for when they'll need to be separated from their mother if they do not all have homes lined up already?
Syrians can have pretty big litters and you could be finding homes for as many as 17 pups. I don't mean to be harsh but I think it's important to know these kind of things before you think about breeding. Another way to let them get acquainted is to put them into separate exercise balls. While you are watching, let them roll around in their pods, smelling each other and interacting safely. Introduce the hamsters when they come of age. Once your hamsters are at least four months old, you can introduce them to each other in a third, neutral cage.
If the female attacks the male, she is not ready to mate. Get him out of the cage as soon as possible, to avoid injury. Part 2. Determine whether the female is in heat. You cannot mate your hamsters if the female is not going to be receptive to the male. At this age, she could go into heat every four to five days. Gently stroke the female on the bottom. If her tail goes erect, she is in heat and ready to mate with the male.
Only place the hamsters together when the female is in heat. Hamsters are territorial animals. If they do not want to mate, they will likely ending up fighting, leading to injury, or even death. Check the female every day until she is in heat before placing them together.
Place the hamsters in the same cage when the female is in heat. Either gently place her in the male's cage or put both hamsters in a neutral third cage. Do not place the male in the female's cage, however, as she will likely fight him to protect her territory. Supervise the mating process. If all goes well, the female's tail should go erect, and the male should mount her more than once.
This may last for around 30 minutes, and the male will likely clean himself between attempts. Separate them when they are finished. You will be able to tell when they are finished because they will suddenly seem disinterested in each other. When this happens, move the female back into her cage. Make a record of the date. An important part of breeding hamsters is keeping good records. Either mark mating dates on a calendar or write them down in a notebook. They will not breed at that temperature.
Part 3. Observe the female for a week. Sometimes, a hamster's behavior changes noticeably when she gets pregnant. Note if she is being strangely quiet, cleaning herself more often, or eating and drinking more than usual. Another common sign is an instinct to gather up large nests. If you see these telltale behavior changes, she is likely pregnant. Figure out when she will give birth. Syrian hamsters usually grow and carry their babies for days before giving birth.
Look up the date on which you last mated your hamsters and add 15 days to it. That is the earliest likely due date for your new litter. Watch for physical changes in the female. You will not be able to tell she is pregnant until just a few days before she gives birth. By ten days after the mating, you should be able to see her belly clearly swelling, as with human pregnancies.
Provide her with nesting and bedding materials. A pregnant female will have a natural instinct to build herself a big nest. Give her extra bedding materials like paper towels or bathroom tissues so she can shred them up for her nest. Prepare the cage for the birth and babies. Make sure you have cleaned the cage five days or so before the due date, and that there is extra food and bedding in the cage. Prepare ahead of time so you do not disturb the mother and babies for the first week after birth.
Do not handle the hamster close to her due date. You want to keep her as calm and relaxed as possible. Keep her environment quiet and soothing; dim or remove bright lights. Keep curious pets like dogs and cats away from her as she gets ready to deliver her babies.
Hamsters usually give birth without problems if you wait until they are old enough to mate four months. The birth will likely happen at night when everything is quiet.
Litters can be as small as 4 or as large as 16 babies. Part 4. Do not disturb the new mother or her babies. Female hamsters sometimes eat their own babies if they get stressed out. It is very important to keep the environment as calm as possible. Though you might be eager to play with the babies, give the mother space and peace for their safety.
At first, the babies will look pink and hairless. They are born with their eyes closed. Continue to care for her after the delivery. Some of the hair shafts are hollow creating the ultra shiny coat. Two Satin Syrians should not be bred together as they will produce either bald hamsters or hamsters with sparse coats. The Rex hamster looks as though its whiskers and coat have been crimped. The Syrian hamster is also bred with patterned coats.
The Banded Syrian has a band of white around its middle. The rest of the hamster can be any of the available colours. The Dominant Spot Syrian hamster is a very attractive creature which has even patches of colour on a white ground.
The Tortoiseshell has patches of colour mixed with patches of black, and in the case of the Tortoiseshell and White with patches of white as well.
A detailed description of all of the colours of Syrian hamsters that are currently available can be found on the National Hamster Council website.
After this age Syrian hamsters start to squabble and these squabbles eventually lead to very nasty fights. Syrian hamsters should be housed in as big a cage as possible. They are large active animals and need space to move around. There are a number of different companies which manufacture cages suitable for Syrians. Some cages designed for rats, such as the Ferplast Mary cage, are very suitable for Syrians. Many cages have plastic tunnels attached.
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